SERRO SCOTTY CAMPER ENTHUSIASTS BRAKES AND BEARINGS
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Things You’ll Need:
brake system general information on installing brake systems
Ratchet set
Wrench
Hammer
Screwdrivers
High-temperature grease
STEP 1
Determine what kind of brake system you should install on your trailer. While simple systems such as electric brakes exist, more complex hydraulic systems
are available. Examine such factors as what distance your trailer will be traveling, as well as the environment, such as a crowded city highway or an open
country road.
STEP 2
Use a tire iron to loosen the lug nuts on the trailer tires.
STEP 3
Lift the trailer frame using a stable jack or a car lift. Since the brake installation requires being beneath the trailer, take extra care to make sure the trailer is
stable before attempting to perform any work.
STEP 4
Remove the lug nuts and set them in a secure place. Then remove the tires from the trailer frame.
STEP 5
Remove the lug nuts and set in a secure place. Then remove the tires from the trailer frame.
STEP 6
Remove the spindle washer and spindle nut that are located underneath the trailer hub. Do not discard them, as they will need to be replaced after the
trailer brake is installed.
STEP 7
Locate the plate mount on the axle, a square-shaped piece of metal with four holes at the corners. This is where the brakes will be attached.
STEP 8
Mount the brakes onto the plate mount. Identify which brake is the left and right before you begin and stand behind the trailer to properly determine the
trailer's left and right sides.
STEP 9
"Pre-pack" the brake bearings. Coat all the bearing rollers in grease, making sure that all the roller surfaces are thoroughly covered.
STEP 10
Insert grease into the hollow of the trailer hub, and then insert the rear bearing into the hub rotor.
STEP 11
Attach the outer bearing, thrust washer and spindle nut onto the hub rotor. Then use a wrench to tighten the spindle nut. Once the nut is tight, loosen it a
quarter of a turn. Loosen and tighten the nut with your fingers until you cannot tighten it without using tools, and then fasten it in place with a cotter pin.
STEP 12
Install the brake tubing system if you are installing a hydraulic brake system. This will connect your trailer brakes with the brake coupler, located behind the
trailer ball connector.
STEP 13
Bleed the trailer brakes. Locate the bleeder valve on each brake and then fill the brake coupler with brake fluid. Attach a clear tube to the bleeder valve,
place a glass jar underneath the tube, then manually pump the brake coupler and check for air bubbles, repeating the test as necessary until no air bubbles
appear.
STEP 14
Replace the tires, and then test the new braking system. Get a friend to turn the trailer tires as you manually engage the brake coupler. If the brakes have
been properly installed, the tire will suddenly stop moving.
GENERAL INFORMATION ON BEARINGS
Bearing Service
Servicing Wheel Bearings
Step by step instructions
Safe jacking
Removing the wheel and hub
Removing the grease seal and bearings
Inspection
Hand packing the bearings
Reassembly
Adjusting the pre-load
Replacing bearings
SAFE JACKING
Park the trailer on firm and level ground.
Block the trailer tires on the opposite side securely so that no forward or
rearward movement is possible.
Jack up the trailer following the manufacturers instructions.
Secure the trailer on jack stands of adequate capacity front and rear.
REMOVING THE WHEEL AND HUB
Undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel
Pry off the dust cap using a flat bladed screwdriver
Straighten out the cotter pin that holds the bearing nut and remove it
Remove the bearing nut and washer
Gently pull the brake drum forward while cupping the hub opening with your hand to keep the front bearing from falling to the ground. The outer race stays
in the drum, while the inner race and roller bearings come out as an assembled unit.
Place the front bearing, bearing nut and the bearing washer in a clean container
REMOVING THE GREASE SEAL AND REAR BEARING
Place the brake drum face down so that the back of the drum is accessible
Pry out the grease seal. This will be replaced in a further step.
Lift out the rear bearing and place it in the container with the rest of the parts
Don't mix up the bearings if you are doing more that one wheel at a time - each bearing must mate with it's original race ( no prejudice intended). The
bearings wear in by a certain amount and need to be matched with their respective counterparts.
INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean the bearings and other parts in a solvent (not gasoline!) until all the old grease is removed. Set the aside to dry completely or blow dry
with compressed air. Don't use the air pressure to spin the bearing, as damage could result to the bearing or to your person!
Clean the hub and spindle.
Inspect the bearing races for heat discoloration, pitting, scoring and any unevenness.
Inspect the bearing for damage as above. Any out of round rollers, cracked roller cages and rough running will indicate replacement is required.
The bearing and both inner and outer races must be replaced as a set.
Inspect the brake drum for pitting and excessive wear especially if the brake shoes were allowed to wear down to bare metal.
Inspect the brake magnet surface for excessive or uneven wear.
If the brake drum and magnet have been saturated with grease from a failed seal, replace the shoes and magnet, and have the drum turned or machined
to renew the surfaces.
HAND PACKING BEARINGS
Place a walnut sized gob of wheel bearing grease in one palm.
Grasp the bearing with the other hand so that the wider end is facing the grease.
What you want to do is force the grease into the gap between the inner race and the outer cage so that it squeezes up through the rollers and out the top.
Press the bearing down into the grease in a rocking motion and continue until the grease oozes up.
Rotate the bearing 1/4 turn, at a time, and continue until the bearing is completely filled with grease.
REASSEMBLY
Put some grease into the interior of the hub with your fingers. A walnut sized amount is sufficient. Spread it around the circumferance of the hub.
Place the inner packed bearing into it's place in the hub.
Place a new seal on the hub and tap it into place with a hammer until it seats fully.
Be sure to wipe off any grease that finds it's way onto the outer flat surface of seal.
Replace the drum onto the axle spindle, insert the outer bearing, thrust washer and axle nut
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PRELOADING BEARINGS
Tighten the axle nut by hand until it is tight. Tighten another 1/4 turn with pliars or wrench.
Spin the drum several times to distribute the grease evenly in the bearings.
Back off the nut with the pliers or wrench, until loose and then retighten finger tight.
Insert a new cotter pin to lock the nut in place and bend it over the spindle.
Re-install the dust cap, wheel and tire, and hubcap.
Now is a very good time to adjust the brakes. See the brake adjusting page for more info.
Wash hands vigorously for 15 minutes!
REPLACING THE BEARINGS
The bearing must be replaced with a complete new bearing with the inner and outer races.
The inner races are pressed into place in the hub and must be driven out.
Use a brass punch to catch the edge of the race by passing it through the inverted hub. A few good whacks with a hammer should drive out the old race.
Place the new race into position and tap it in with the hammer and punch. Take care not to mar the surface of the race.
Pack, reassemble, and preload the bearings.

If you have any information you would like to share with the group please email me at dturner26531@yahoo.com
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I have found a selections of videos on bearings,and hubs. for those of us who are not experienced in these things I think it will be a help
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