SERRO SCOTTY CAMPER ENTHUSIASTS
ELECTICAL SYSTEMS
SERRO SCOTTY CAMPER ENTHUSIASTS

ELECTRICAL SYSYEMS 120 V
First of all the only time you would need a generator on a travel
trailer is if you plan to do some dry camping, without electricity. If
this is the case you would need the generator to operate the air
conditioner, microwave, TV or any 120 volt appliances, the
refrigerator in the electric mode and your 120 volt outlets.  

Your trailer has a 30 amp electrical service. What this equates to is
you can operate 3,600 watts before you have a problem. 120 volts
X 30 amps = 3,600 watts. You are probably aware that you
cannot operate everything in the trailer at one time without a
breaker tripping. This is because you are exceeding the 3,600 watt
limit or the 30 amp limit. For a quick example, the A/C draws about
14 amps. If you use the microwave, another 13 amps, and a
coffee pot at 8 amps, all at the same time you exceed the 30 amps
and a breaker will trip.

Generators are rated in kilowatts. Each kilowatt is 1,000 watts. So
a 3kw generator is 3,000 watts. This is less than the 3,600 watts
your trailer is designed for. If you plan to use the A/C with the
generator I recommend a 4kw generator, 4,000 watts or 33.3
amps. There are many different types of portable generators
available. You need to determine how you will mount or transport
the generator. Some people have a small platform mounted to the
rear of the trailer that they mount the generator on. Other people
just transport it in the tow vehicle and when you get to your
destination set it up where you will be camping. You need to take
additional fuel depending on where you are going and how long
you are staying. Be sure and route the exhaust away from the
trailer. Carbon monoxide is deadly! To connect to it you either
need a generator with an outlet designed to plug the trailer plug
into or you can use an adapter to go from the trailer plug into the
generator receptacle. Try to avoid using any extension cords as
this affects the voltage coming into the trailer. When you use the
generator select the number of appliances that will be operating at
one time just as you do when you're plugged into campground
electric. Most appliances have a data plate that tells you the
wattage or amperage requirements of the appliance. Here is some
basic information on amperage draw for common trailer appliances
and electronics.

Coffee maker - 8.3 amps
Converter - 8 amps
Hair dryer - 9 to 12 amps
Microwave - 13 amps
Refrigerator - 2.8 amps
Roof air conditioner 13.5 amps
TV - 1.5 amps
Toaster - 8 to 10 amps
VCR - 2 amps
Electric skillet 6 to 12 amps
Link to wiring diagram from Mark
Judd

Wiring,plumbing,gas for Hilander
If you have any information you
would like to share with the group
please email me at
dturner26531@yahoo.com
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INFORMATION ON 12 VOLT SYSTEMS

All RVs have two separate electrical systems, 12-volt direct current
(DC) and 120-volt alternating current (AC).

The 12-volt system powers all the essential appliances that are
needed to camp without campground hookups. Coupled with
rechargeable batteries, this is what allows RVers to camp away from
cities and towns and experience the beauty of nature with all the
comforts of home. This freedom from the electrical grid is what
draws many people to RVing.

The 12-volt system has its own fuses, receptacles, wiring and power
source. Automotive fuses are often used to protect the 12-volt
circuits. The fuses are usually located behind a metal panel, close to
where the power cord enters the RV. Be sure to carry spare fuses of
the correct size and rating (these are indicated by the color of the
fuse and a number on the end).

Receptacles for the 12-volt system are usually the round cigarette-
lighter type found in automobiles. Televisions and other appliances
that run on 12 volts are available for RVs.
The power source for the 12-volt system is the battery. Batteries
store electrical current and appliances use current. RV batteries are
called deep-cycle batteries because they are built to be discharged
deeply and recharged many, many times without damaging the
battery. (The ins and outs of batteries will be covered in detail in
another article.)

RVers who camp without hookups (boondock) have to be aware of
how much battery power they use. To prevent permanent damage to
the battery, RV batteries should only be discharged from 50 percent
to 80 percent of their capacity.
The basics of RV life—light, water, heat, fans and motors,
refrigeration, entertainment, and safety—are provided by the 12-volt
system. The battery provides power for:
·Lights

Learn all about 12 volt systems at RVbookstore.com.
·Water pump
·Thermostat
·Furnace fan
·Kitchen fan
·Bathroom fan
·Slide-out motor
·Refrigerator circuit board
·Stereo and CD player
·TV (only a 12-volt model)
·LP gas detector
·Inverter (not all RVs have one)

Lights: RV light bulbs are either the small, round automotive type or
fluorescent tubes that operate on 12 volts. If a lot of lights are on at
one time, they can use quite a lot of battery power.

Water: The water pump brings water from the fresh water tank on
demand and uses small amounts of current.

Heat and Fans: The furnace burns propane gas, but the furnace fan
and the thermostat need 12 volts to operate. Furnace fans use quite
a bit of current and can quickly deplete a battery on a cold night.
Kitchen and bathroom fans are typically run for shorter periods of
time.

Slide-outs: After boondocking for several days, the battery may be
too weak to move the slide-out. Starting the engine of the
motorhome or tow vehicle will provide power for the slide-out motor.

Refrigeration: The refrigerator circuit board takes a very small
amount of current from the battery. Most refrigerators run on
propane or 120-volt AC electricity, but some can operate on 12-volts.

Entertainment: Electronic devices, such as radios and black and white
TVs, use small amounts of electricity. Color TVs use more. Most RVs
have a TV antenna amplifier that uses very little electricity and
boosts the TV signal coming from the antenna.

LP Gas Detector: A very important safety device, the LP (liquid
propane) gas detector uses very little current. It could save your life
and prevent a fire.

Phantom Loads
Appliances that draw small amounts of current but run 24 hours a
day can deplete a battery in just a few days. Many RVers are
unaware of phantom loads until they leave their RV for a few days
and return to find a dead battery. Sources of phantom loads are
illuminated switches, clocks, gas detectors, stereo memory, motion
activated lights and the circuit boards in refrigerators and
thermostats.

What Is an Inverter?
An inverter takes 12-volt DC electricity and increases it to 120-volt
AC electricity. Motorhomes and large 5th wheel trailers that are
equipped with a generator usually come with an inverter. Travel
trailers and smaller 5th wheels usually don’t. An inverter makes it
possible to operate standard household appliances, like microwave
ovens and electric coffeemakers, when the RV is not plugged into a
campground receptacle.

There is a high cost for this increased power an inverter provides. To
increase 12 volts to 120 volts, the voltage is increased by a factor of
10. The cost for that increase is paid in current. For example,
running a microwave oven takes 10 times as much current from a 12-
volt battery, going through an inverter, than it would if the current
came from 120-volt shore power.

Running 120-volt appliances from a 12-volt battery can be a big
drain on the battery. RVers who boondock with all the comforts of
home need two or more batteries and a generator or solar battery
charging system.