RV Roof Inspection
The first step in any RV roof inspection is to get out the step ladder and take a good look at the roof condition. If
the roof is metal, especially if it is the seamed type, (has crosswise seams every 48" or so), then lay a plywood
strip or some wide boards (lengthwise) to walk on. This way the boards span the roof rafters and distribute your
weight evenly over several supports. A rubber covered roof has an underlying layer of material, usually a 3/16th
to 1/2 inch plywood or particle board sheeting that evenly supports your weight.
The membrane on a rubber or metal roof is made of a very tough and durable material but it is fairly thin and can
be punctured by a sharp object. Yes, you can carefully walk on the surface, however first check your shoes for
embedded stones and such, that could do damage to the roof covering.
Natural weathering will occur on a roof of any material and various contaminants will discolor all or portions of the
surface. Aluminum will "age" to a slate colored state and a rubber roof may present a chalky residue. In any case
be prepared with casual work clothing and footwear to conduct a proper inspection. You WILL get dirty.
An aluminum roof can and does last for many years if it is maintained properly. The same goes for rubber,
fiberglass or any combination of the above materials. The sealants that are used may last for several years, but
the conditions they are subject to vary so widely in the extremes between hot and cold and humidity. Sealants
may have to be renewed or repaired in as little as 6 months!
The roof should be inspected at least twice a year and any developing condition corrected immediately. Different
brands of sealants preform better than others. For example, our Fleetwood trailer line (Wilderness and Mallard),
have recently changed the brand of sealant used on their rubber roofs. (I don't have access to the name of the
brands they use, as yet, and getting an answer from them is a time consuming process! Even for a Dealer!). The
new one is very poor and needs touching up almost as soon as they come onto the lot. They may have solved
the problem because the 2001 models seem to be better.
For rubber roofs use a self-leveling sealant - Dicor makes the rubber membrane and also a line of sealants that
are compatible under the Dicor name. See: http://www.dicor.com/
Aluminum and fiberglass roofs use a fibre impregnated roof coat material to seal the seams and accessory
openings. These materials are applied with a paint brush or putty knife and should be applied to a clean prepared
surface for best results. Any loose or flaking roof coat should be removed and the surface cleaned with soap and
water. A wire brush can be used to "rough" up the surface. A heat gun will help soften the old roof coat to aid in
removal. So will the hot sun on a 100 degree day, but that is no time to be up on the roof!
Remember, it's not the roof material that usually leaks, it is all the extra holes cut into it for various items and the
sealant used on these openings that creates the leaks.
The first step in any RV roof inspection is to get out the step ladder and take a good look at the roof condition. If
the roof is metal, especially if it is the seamed type, (has crosswise seams every 48" or so), then lay a plywood
strip or some wide boards (lengthwise) to walk on. This way the boards span the roof rafters and distribute your
weight evenly over several supports. A rubber covered roof has an underlying layer of material, usually a 3/16th
to 1/2 inch plywood or particle board sheeting that evenly supports your weight.
The membrane on a rubber or metal roof is made of a very tough and durable material but it is fairly thin and can
be punctured by a sharp object. Yes, you can carefully walk on the surface, however first check your shoes for
embedded stones and such, that could do damage to the roof covering.
Natural weathering will occur on a roof of any material and various contaminants will discolor all or portions of the
surface. Aluminum will "age" to a slate colored state and a rubber roof may present a chalky residue. In any case
be prepared with casual work clothing and footwear to conduct a proper inspection. You WILL get dirty.
An aluminum roof can and does last for many years if it is maintained properly. The same goes for rubber,
fiberglass or any combination of the above materials. The sealants that are used may last for several years, but
the conditions they are subject to vary so widely in the extremes between hot and cold and humidity. Sealants
may have to be renewed or repaired in as little as 6 months!
The roof should be inspected at least twice a year and any developing condition corrected immediately. Different
brands of sealants preform better than others. For example, our Fleetwood trailer line (Wilderness and Mallard),
have recently changed the brand of sealant used on their rubber roofs. (I don't have access to the name of the
brands they use, as yet, and getting an answer from them is a time consuming process! Even for a Dealer!). The
new one is very poor and needs touching up almost as soon as they come onto the lot. They may have solved
the problem because the 2001 models seem to be better.
For rubber roofs use a self-leveling sealant - Dicor makes the rubber membrane and also a line of sealants that
are compatible under the Dicor name. See: http://www.dicor.com/
Aluminum and fiberglass roofs use a fibre impregnated roof coat material to seal the seams and accessory
openings. These materials are applied with a paint brush or putty knife and should be applied to a clean prepared
surface for best results. Any loose or flaking roof coat should be removed and the surface cleaned with soap and
water. A wire brush can be used to "rough" up the surface. A heat gun will help soften the old roof coat to aid in
removal. So will the hot sun on a 100 degree day, but that is no time to be up on the roof!
Remember, it's not the roof material that usually leaks, it is all the extra holes cut into it for various items and the
sealant used on these openings that creates the leaks.
| With our Scottys one of the major problems the manufacture had to deal with was leaking esp on the roof seams and vents. One of the first things you should do is inspect your roof, for damage, and areas that maybe leaking, hopefully if leaking it has not caused any problems to the inside, but this is not the case with alot of the scotty campers, so first do your inspection, determine were your leak is and then get it repaired, The inspection proceedure Ive listed here is for rv's in general but has some sound advice I have listed at the bottom some materials a lot of the members have tried. |
| SERRO SCOTTY CAMPER ENTHUSIASTS ROOF AND ROOF REPAIR |
| HERE ARE SOME LINKS TO ROOF SEALING MATERIALS THERE ARE SEVERAL GOOD PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET, BUT HERE ARE SOME THE MEMBERS HAVE USED WITH GREAT SUCCESS I CAN NOT SAY THAT THESE ARE THE CHEAPEST PRICES AVAILABLE SO YOU MAY WANT TO SHOP AROUND, BUT THIS IS A GOOD PLACE TO START ETERNABOND ASSORTED SEALING PRODUCTS |
 | |  |
| If you have any information that you would like to share with the group please email me at dturner26531@yahoo.com |
FROM MIKE COUMAS TO ANOTHER MEMBER
Debbie..... are you going to remove the spiral nails and
install stainless screws? If so... use the rolled
chauking/putty between the seams and then install the
screws. If your just protecting the seams and don't
want to take on too much, I would use the Cool Patch
patching seam tape ( comes in aluminum or white )
over the seams to seal them up for many years. A
more expensive version called eternabond tape is also
available. If your doing the whole roof... some have
used a product called kool seal (paintable application)
and now proflex brushable sealant. all available from
camping world on line ( to read about them and/or
order ). FYI, Mike C.
Debbie..... are you going to remove the spiral nails and
install stainless screws? If so... use the rolled
chauking/putty between the seams and then install the
screws. If your just protecting the seams and don't
want to take on too much, I would use the Cool Patch
patching seam tape ( comes in aluminum or white )
over the seams to seal them up for many years. A
more expensive version called eternabond tape is also
available. If your doing the whole roof... some have
used a product called kool seal (paintable application)
and now proflex brushable sealant. all available from
camping world on line ( to read about them and/or
order ). FYI, Mike C.