SERRO SCOTTY CAMPER ENTHUSIASTS
GETTING YOUR CAMPER READY FOR WINTER
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Some of these items will not apply but is here in case you do need some direction
Winterizing Checklist
Water ...
This is listed first because it is the most important item and will be covered in detail at the end of this checklist.
Food ... Before you close your RV up for the winter, make sure it has been completely cleaned out of food articles.
Anything at all that might attract rodents and insects need to go. Spices, sugar, even things like soap, tooth paste and
deodorant might make a tasty treat for some critter. The best thing to do, is just take every consumable item out of the
RV for the winter. .
Give particular attention to the refrigerator. Prop the door open and leave a box of baking soda or plain charcoal
briquettes inside the frig and freezer to keep odors from developing.
Remove all food from the pantry and kitchen cabinets.
Remove or thoroughly clean the trash can.
Remove any toiletries that might attract pests. Pay special attention to bottles of liquids that might freeze and crack over
the winter leaving a mess in the spring. It is best just to remove these items.
Vents ... Cover external vents. This keeps pests such as mice, wasps and spiders from building nests inside the unit. It
also helps to keep cold air and moisture out of the unit.
refrigerator vents
range hood
air conditioner
furnace
hot water heater
water system doors
electrical outlets
Air Conditioner ...
Clean rooftop air conditioner filters and cover the unit.
Dryer Sheets and moth balls ... These are home grown remedies for mice and incests. The jury is out on whether they
work or not, but we are including them because many people swear that they do.
Many people say that rodents and incests hate the smell of Bounce dryer sheets, so leave a few of them scattered
arround the RV.
Another item that people leave around the RV is moth balls. Put them inside the RV and scattered around the ground
outside.
Batteries ...
Remove dry cell batteries from flashlights, clocks or other devices or appliances. Cold weather drains dry cells of their
power.
Charge wet cell storage batteries to full electrical charge. A charged battery should survive freezing temperatures with
minimal effect, while a discharged battery can freeze and be damaged.
Sunlight ... Close all window coverings or tape scrap fabric or paper over RV windows to prevent sun rays from fading
and deteriorating interior fabrics.
Tires ... Cover tires with plastic or canvas to eliminate damage caused by ultraviolet sunrays. Also raise your RV unit
onto jacks, to relieve pressure on tires.
A few individuals like to jack their RV's and set them up on blocks or stands, others take the tires off and store them in
the garage. Both seem like good idea's, but are not really necessary. Tires can dry rot whether their still on the RV, or
inside the garage. Most people keep the wheels on it, but if you park the rig on something other than a paved or
concrete driveway, you should consider getting some flat concrete blocks to place under the tires. During the spring
thaw, the ground gets really soft and moist, and the tires could sink in. And if your parked on unlevel terrain, and it
starts to sink into the ground, that could make it shift a little, and possibly cause the wheel chocks to loose their
effectiveness.
I have heard that this could keep the bearings and tires from developing flat spots. The jury is still out on that one. But if
it makes you feel better, then by all means go ahead and take them off, it certainly won't hurt anything.
It wouldn't hurt to dig out a can of WD-40 at this time, and spray the bushings on the units suspension. If it is equipped
with rubber body mount bushings, such as a motor home, those should be sprayed too. The WD-40 helps keep the
rubber soft and supple, and helps prevent dry rotting, thus prolonging the life of your unit.
Moisture Control ... Moisture buildup in the RV will lead to mildew stains and odor.
Though some people like to cover their RV's, it is not generally recommended. Using tarp's to cover it may keep water
and snow off of it for the most part, but moisture will still get in underneath of it. Worse yet, that moisture under the tarp
will be trapped, and cannot evaporate out from underneath it. The result is mold or mildew. If you do cover the unit, try
to at least find something that is made of "breathable" material.
There are a couple of things you can do to control moisture inside the RV during the long winter months. One of the
more accepted methods is to place something inside that will absorb the moisture. The most popular method is using a
chemical absorbent. Most of them come in a plastic container, and you simply open it and set it inside the camper. It will
work similar to silica gel, and absorb the moisture from the air. The plastic container keeps any moisture from draining
onto the floor, or the product from causing any stains. There are several different products available such as Dri-Z-Air
from Campers World and Damp Rid from Walmart. Most of these "moisture removers" are largely made from Calcium
Chloride, the same stuff you melt ice off the front walk with.
Another method is place a small heat source inside the RV. This could be anything from a light bulb to an enclosed
heater. The flaw here is, you'll need to keep power to it all winter long, and take the chance that something could ignite,
or an electrical short. Since you're not likely to be too involved with the unit during the winter months, such a problem
could go un-noticed, at least until it's too late. WE DO NOT recommend you do this, we are simply pointing out another
option.
Rodent Control...
Here's a subject no one likes to discuss, but many of you have had to deal with this on occasion. The most common
rodent problem is mice, who starting looking for a nice winter home about the same time you're putting the RV up for the
winter. Your RV is a perfect place for them, dry, wind proof, up off the ground, deserted, and possibly even heated.
These furry little creatures are highly destructive too, they will chew up paper, or worse yet, cloth such as curtains or
furniture.
Mice are relatively small to begin with, and they only need a tiny opening to get into the RV with. If they can get their tiny
little head through a hole, their whole body will follow through. And the underside of your RV probably has a few holes
that will sufficiently allow them through. The only way to find them, is to get underneath of it, and look for them. You'll
have to really scrutinize the underside of the rig. If you find any opening underneath the rig that you can fit your baby
finger into, then you need to close that opening. Some people recommend stuffing it with aluminum or brass wool, it
won't rust like steel wool does. Having a can of "Great Stuff" with you can be quite effective, and easy to apply.
There are many small animals that could attempt to gain access to your camper, not just mice. Some of them can be
fairly nasty little critters. Rats are probably the most despised, while garden variety moles, mice, and shrews can be a
problem. I've read reports of squirrels making a home inside of campers. Keep in mind, most of these pests not only
chew on the wood flooring to make access holes larger, they can also chew up curtains, seat cushions & coverings, and
even the wiring.
Insect Control...
You may be able to find all the holes a mouse can squeeze through, but insects are another story. In the spring the
bugs will be all over the place searching for a place to call home. And getting into your RV should be an easy job for
tiny insects, particularly ants. A few well placed ant traps will likely suffice here. I've heard stories about people placing
moth balls or dryer sheets into their units to keep out the rodents and insects, but I really don't know how effective this
method really is.
Another problem in the spring time are Bee's, which could try and claim some space on or under your camper for their
hives. Once they start building, they will consider you the intruder in their domain, and protect their hives. There is no
real way to prevent this, about all you can do is be vigilant, keep an eye open for the obvious signs (like a bunch of
bee's buzzing around the unit). Please exercise caution when trying to rid your camper of bee's!
Spiders can also be a problem, and they like to get into some of the hardest to spot places. I've found them nesting
inside my trailer brakes, storage compartments, and inside various appliances. The only way to really get rid of these
creatures is to spray.
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Step 1.
Locate the fresh water tank drain valve or plug and open it to drain the fresh water ...
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Step 2.
Locate the water heater tank drain plug and remove or open it to drain the water heater ...
Open an inside faucet to allow air to enter the system. This speeds up the process ...
Step 3.
Bypass the water heater ...
This bypass system uses three valves ...
... and the next uses one valve with a one-way check valve at the hot water outlet ...
The Water Heater Bypass is used when winterizing the water system. It is a series of valves or a single lever valve
that allows the water flow to be shut off from the water heater and still be pumped to the rest of the hot water piping.
This eliminates the need to fill the water heater tank with 6 gallons of winterizing antifreeze ... the tank is bypassed and
then drained of water.
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Step 3A.
Remove water filter...
This is an item that many forget. If you have a water filter it is usually under the kitchen sink and sometimes a second
one at the bathroom sink. You should have a bypass hose that is the same length as the filter. Remove the filter and
replace it with the bypass hose. This picture shows the bypass hose in place
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Step 4.
Locate the water pump, disconnect the inlet fitting ...
... and install the winterizing hose ...
... insert the other end of the hose into the antifreeze jug ...
... an aftermarket kit is available for a permanent installation ... this is easily installed and comes with easy-to-follow
directions. Order on-line from Camping World ... Pump Kit
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Step 5.
Turn on the water pump and open the taps, one by one ...
... until the antifreeze appears ...
...do the hot and cold taps ...
... at every sink or shower faucet ...
... don't forget the toilet! ...
NOTE: If you have one, don't forget the Spray nozzle for cleaning toilet
... or the outside shower, if you have one ...
Don't forget the Washer / Dryer rough-in.
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Step 6.
Turn off the water pump and de-pressurize the system by opening a cold water tap ...
IMPORTANT!
Make sure to relieve the water system pressure before proceeding!
... at the city water connection, pry out the screen and washer ...
( NOTE: Make sure the water pressure in the lines is extremely low, just a trickle, or you will blow out the O rings in the
check valve when you press the stem.)
...and press in on the valve stem until the antifreeze runs out ...
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Step 7.
Pour about a cupful of antifreeze into every drain to displace the water and protect the trap.
Finally, dump the holding tanks and pour a pint or so of antifreeze directly through the toilet and the tub drain ...
... to protect the dump valves.
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Winterizing the ice maker
This is cut & pasted from the Dometic manual..
Follow these Steps:
1. Shut off water supply valve to ice maker.
2. Place a shallow pan under water solenoid valve.
3. Remove inlet fitting to ice maker water solenoid valve. Drain water from the supply line.
4. Remove the plastic nut and water line from outlet side of water solenoid valve. Drain water from the line.
5. Cycle ice maker several times while blowing compressed air through water solenoid valve. Be sure all water is out of
the solenoid. NOTE: Up to 40 PSIG air pressure can be used to clear the valve.
6. Reconnect and tighten lines on water solenoid valve. Leave the water supply turned off until temperatures are above
32°F/0°C.
7. Dry out ice maker mold assembly with soft cloth. Place bail arm in UP/OFF position.
Winterizing the washer/dryer combo:
Set the water temperature control to warm - this will fill both the cold and the hot lines with antifreeze.
Turn on the unit and run about a gallon of antifreeze into the unit.
Turn the control to spin - this will allow the pump to run the antifreeze through itself and then through the drain hose.
Pour a cup down the drain to be sure that the "p" trap is filled with antifreeze.
Don't forget:
Washer / Dryer
Outside shower
Ice Maker
Toilet
Tub and hand-held shower
Water filter under the sink
Spray nozzle for cleaning toilet
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