TEMPORARY RV REPAIRS
No one wants a minor RV breakdown to stop them cold in their
tracks. It’s frustrating to hear the vacation time clock tick away
because a "little" damage creates a long delay. But it doesn’t have
to happen. Chances are a temporary repair can get you back on
the road again without disturbing your plans. Just a few
preparations and precautions can help you fix many kinds of minor
damage that might otherwise ruin your trip. Sound too
complicated? Not if you know what repair items to bring, how to
make simple, on-the-spot repairs, what to expect from roadside
assistance and how to keep your RV going until you can get it
properly repaired at home.
Be prepared for temporary RV repairs on the Road
Just about any RV owner can easily make temporary repairs,
depending on how handy you are and the nature of the repair.
But if you don’t feel comfortable attempting a minor repair, you
can contact a mobile RV service that will come to your location to
replace a broken windshield or make other small repairs.
Roadside, or on-site services are intended to help you overcome
minor problems with your RV and get you on the road again in a
hurry. You can get towing and roadside assistance as part of your
insurance policy or buy it separately from a service provider. Look
for towing and roadside assistance that can dispatch qualified help
to you anywhere in the U.S. or Canada, doesn’t make you pay out-
of-pocket expenses and has a 24-hour toll-free number staffed by
people familiar with RVs. It’s true that every RVer needs a reliable
towing and roadside assistance program, but it’s also a good idea
to prepare to make simple, temporary repairs on your own.
Handy Things to Carry
In order to make temporary repairs, take these items with you on
every trip: flashlight, jumper cables, trickle battery charger, road
flares, adjustable wrench, various types of screwdrivers, hammer,
pliers, pocket knife and duct tape for quick-fix repairs. Carry a few
spare parts, especially for long trips. Include some spare belts,
hoses, fuses and headlights. Even if you check these items before
you leave, they can break at any time while traveling. Bring along a
variety of screws, staples, nails, rivets and other fasteners. Also
bring the common fluids your RV uses; for example, oil,
transmission fluid and anti-freeze.
Make a solid, stable jack your number one piece of tire-changing
equipment, then add a jack stand and wheel blocks. A hydraulic
jack is easier to use than the kind that’s often supplied with RVs.
Or, a leveling jack can also be used. Larger rigs should carry a 3/4-
inch breaker bar with a socket that fits your vehicle’s lug nuts or
lug bolts. You can get great leverage when you use the breaker
bar to loosen or tighten nuts or bolts.
When you change a tire, make sure you’re well off the road and
on a flat surface. Set up some flares or triangular reflectors if it’s
dark, then block the rear wheels before you begin. Place a jack
stand under the RV in case the jack gives way. Once your RV is
lifted, don’t get underneath it. Use flat-tire spray only as a last
resort. It may only fix your tire temporarily and may make the tire
difficult or impossible to fully repair later.
You’ll also need two, easily accessible, 5BC, 2 1/2 lb. fire
extinguishers. Check them before you leave to make sure they are
charged and usable. Then familiarize yourself with their operation
before your trip. If an engine fire occurs, it’s too late to learn how
to use the extinguisher. Another important piece of equipment is
a portable air compressor. It takes up little room and permits you
to temporarily repair a slow tire leak. An air compressor only costs
about $25, and you can also use it to inflate rafts, toys and other
items without making a special trip to the service station.
Store large, strong trash bags and a lightweight painter’s
polyethylene drop cloth in your RV, along with an ample amount of
duct tape. Let’s say a sudden windstorm damages your RV’s roof.
You can use plastic trash bags or the drop cloth and duct tape to
keep leaking water out of your rig’s interior. You can also reduce
water damage by putting vent covers on as soon as possible. The
idea is to keep the water out of your RV to prevent it from getting
into the walls or damaging carpet and upholstery.
An Ounce of Prevention
Experienced RVers know the value of preparing for emergencies or
temporary repairs, and they also take precautions to avoid
breakdowns on the road. For example, plan to make a stop every
few hours to cool down your rig’s brakes and tires. At the same
time, look under your motor home for leaking oil, transmission
fluid or anti-freeze. Inspect hitches and your travel trailer’s
suspension system. Look at the tires, then put your hand close to
the tires to see if they’re hotter than they should be. Be careful
not to put your bare hands on a hot tire. This could hurt! This is
also a good time to check the radiator hose for cracking, but use
caution -- it’s hot in there.
If your RV is overloaded, it may overheat under some driving
conditions. Overheating can occur in very hot weather or when
climbing a grade. When the temperature gauge rises, turn off the
air conditioner and shift to a lower gear if the minimum speed limit
allows. You can also help lower the temperature if you pull off the
road, put the gearshift in park, set the parking brake, leave the
engine on, raise the hood and rev up the engine a little to get air
through the radiator.
Also, consider adding a transmission cooler before your trip to
help keep your transmission from overheating.
In Case of an Accident
Every RVer needs a pencil and pad of paper that lists what to do
immediately after an accident. A mechanical pencil is best because
a pen’s ink dries out over time and a regular pencil lead can break
or wear down easily. Keep the pencil and paper in a plastic bag
inside the glove compartment at all times.
List critical information about your insurance company, like the
policy number and phone number, and who to contact in case of
an emergency. Write these questions in your notebook: How can I
contact the police department? Who is the other driver’s
insurance company and what is his or her policy number? What is
the other driver’s license plate number, full name, address and
phone number? The notebook and a disposable 35 mm camera will
help get the facts straight regarding damage from a collision.
After an accident, secure RV body parts if they are loose and save
any parts that fall off. Never throw them away, because many
parts are difficult to replace. That’s especially true for fiberglass
siding and fiberglass on front and rear caps. Many RV fiberglass
parts take six weeks or longer to obtain. And, sometimes they
aren’t available at all. If you look at the NADA RV book, you’ll see
that some manufacturers have gone out of business and
fiberglass parts may not be readily available for these units.
Never let a repair facility throw away fiberglass pieces from the
front cap or other areas on a motor home. Fiberglass is easier to
repair than replace. When it’s replaced, factory seals can be
disturbed. Just like a boat hull, the repaired section will be the
strongest area of the cap once finished.
When small parts end up on the pavement after an accident, pick
them up and put them in a covered plastic container, so grease
and grime won’t get on your carpet. Chances are your repair will
be better and faster when you’re able to save or secure all good
parts. It’s a good idea to bring along extra plastic containers or
empty coffee cans. Not only will they come in handy if you’re in an
accident, but you can also store small parts or tools in them in the
meantime.
Avoid Rip-Offs
After an accident, call the police first, then your insurance carrier.
Don’t commit to major repairs unless you first check with your
insurance company. The local insurance adjuster can help you find
the right kind of repair service in a hurry. Be aware that the main
source of RV repair rip-offs is the highway filling station/garage
that depends on transient business. Many operators are
completely honest, but some dishonest ones prey on RVers in
crisis.
No one wants a minor RV breakdown to stop them cold in their
tracks. It’s frustrating to hear the vacation time clock tick away
because a "little" damage creates a long delay. But it doesn’t have
to happen. Chances are a temporary repair can get you back on
the road again without disturbing your plans. Just a few
preparations and precautions can help you fix many kinds of minor
damage that might otherwise ruin your trip. Sound too
complicated? Not if you know what repair items to bring, how to
make simple, on-the-spot repairs, what to expect from roadside
assistance and how to keep your RV going until you can get it
properly repaired at home.
Be prepared for temporary RV repairs on the Road
Just about any RV owner can easily make temporary repairs,
depending on how handy you are and the nature of the repair.
But if you don’t feel comfortable attempting a minor repair, you
can contact a mobile RV service that will come to your location to
replace a broken windshield or make other small repairs.
Roadside, or on-site services are intended to help you overcome
minor problems with your RV and get you on the road again in a
hurry. You can get towing and roadside assistance as part of your
insurance policy or buy it separately from a service provider. Look
for towing and roadside assistance that can dispatch qualified help
to you anywhere in the U.S. or Canada, doesn’t make you pay out-
of-pocket expenses and has a 24-hour toll-free number staffed by
people familiar with RVs. It’s true that every RVer needs a reliable
towing and roadside assistance program, but it’s also a good idea
to prepare to make simple, temporary repairs on your own.
Handy Things to Carry
In order to make temporary repairs, take these items with you on
every trip: flashlight, jumper cables, trickle battery charger, road
flares, adjustable wrench, various types of screwdrivers, hammer,
pliers, pocket knife and duct tape for quick-fix repairs. Carry a few
spare parts, especially for long trips. Include some spare belts,
hoses, fuses and headlights. Even if you check these items before
you leave, they can break at any time while traveling. Bring along a
variety of screws, staples, nails, rivets and other fasteners. Also
bring the common fluids your RV uses; for example, oil,
transmission fluid and anti-freeze.
Make a solid, stable jack your number one piece of tire-changing
equipment, then add a jack stand and wheel blocks. A hydraulic
jack is easier to use than the kind that’s often supplied with RVs.
Or, a leveling jack can also be used. Larger rigs should carry a 3/4-
inch breaker bar with a socket that fits your vehicle’s lug nuts or
lug bolts. You can get great leverage when you use the breaker
bar to loosen or tighten nuts or bolts.
When you change a tire, make sure you’re well off the road and
on a flat surface. Set up some flares or triangular reflectors if it’s
dark, then block the rear wheels before you begin. Place a jack
stand under the RV in case the jack gives way. Once your RV is
lifted, don’t get underneath it. Use flat-tire spray only as a last
resort. It may only fix your tire temporarily and may make the tire
difficult or impossible to fully repair later.
You’ll also need two, easily accessible, 5BC, 2 1/2 lb. fire
extinguishers. Check them before you leave to make sure they are
charged and usable. Then familiarize yourself with their operation
before your trip. If an engine fire occurs, it’s too late to learn how
to use the extinguisher. Another important piece of equipment is
a portable air compressor. It takes up little room and permits you
to temporarily repair a slow tire leak. An air compressor only costs
about $25, and you can also use it to inflate rafts, toys and other
items without making a special trip to the service station.
Store large, strong trash bags and a lightweight painter’s
polyethylene drop cloth in your RV, along with an ample amount of
duct tape. Let’s say a sudden windstorm damages your RV’s roof.
You can use plastic trash bags or the drop cloth and duct tape to
keep leaking water out of your rig’s interior. You can also reduce
water damage by putting vent covers on as soon as possible. The
idea is to keep the water out of your RV to prevent it from getting
into the walls or damaging carpet and upholstery.
An Ounce of Prevention
Experienced RVers know the value of preparing for emergencies or
temporary repairs, and they also take precautions to avoid
breakdowns on the road. For example, plan to make a stop every
few hours to cool down your rig’s brakes and tires. At the same
time, look under your motor home for leaking oil, transmission
fluid or anti-freeze. Inspect hitches and your travel trailer’s
suspension system. Look at the tires, then put your hand close to
the tires to see if they’re hotter than they should be. Be careful
not to put your bare hands on a hot tire. This could hurt! This is
also a good time to check the radiator hose for cracking, but use
caution -- it’s hot in there.
If your RV is overloaded, it may overheat under some driving
conditions. Overheating can occur in very hot weather or when
climbing a grade. When the temperature gauge rises, turn off the
air conditioner and shift to a lower gear if the minimum speed limit
allows. You can also help lower the temperature if you pull off the
road, put the gearshift in park, set the parking brake, leave the
engine on, raise the hood and rev up the engine a little to get air
through the radiator.
Also, consider adding a transmission cooler before your trip to
help keep your transmission from overheating.
In Case of an Accident
Every RVer needs a pencil and pad of paper that lists what to do
immediately after an accident. A mechanical pencil is best because
a pen’s ink dries out over time and a regular pencil lead can break
or wear down easily. Keep the pencil and paper in a plastic bag
inside the glove compartment at all times.
List critical information about your insurance company, like the
policy number and phone number, and who to contact in case of
an emergency. Write these questions in your notebook: How can I
contact the police department? Who is the other driver’s
insurance company and what is his or her policy number? What is
the other driver’s license plate number, full name, address and
phone number? The notebook and a disposable 35 mm camera will
help get the facts straight regarding damage from a collision.
After an accident, secure RV body parts if they are loose and save
any parts that fall off. Never throw them away, because many
parts are difficult to replace. That’s especially true for fiberglass
siding and fiberglass on front and rear caps. Many RV fiberglass
parts take six weeks or longer to obtain. And, sometimes they
aren’t available at all. If you look at the NADA RV book, you’ll see
that some manufacturers have gone out of business and
fiberglass parts may not be readily available for these units.
Never let a repair facility throw away fiberglass pieces from the
front cap or other areas on a motor home. Fiberglass is easier to
repair than replace. When it’s replaced, factory seals can be
disturbed. Just like a boat hull, the repaired section will be the
strongest area of the cap once finished.
When small parts end up on the pavement after an accident, pick
them up and put them in a covered plastic container, so grease
and grime won’t get on your carpet. Chances are your repair will
be better and faster when you’re able to save or secure all good
parts. It’s a good idea to bring along extra plastic containers or
empty coffee cans. Not only will they come in handy if you’re in an
accident, but you can also store small parts or tools in them in the
meantime.
Avoid Rip-Offs
After an accident, call the police first, then your insurance carrier.
Don’t commit to major repairs unless you first check with your
insurance company. The local insurance adjuster can help you find
the right kind of repair service in a hurry. Be aware that the main
source of RV repair rip-offs is the highway filling station/garage
that depends on transient business. Many operators are
completely honest, but some dishonest ones prey on RVers in
crisis.
| T E M P O R Y R V R E P A I R S |
RV TIRE CARE
It's important to keep in mind that the life of an RV tire cannot be
measured by miles alone, nor can you always rely on tires that "look
good." Given the stop-and-go nature of many RVers, RVs often sit
for extended periods of time in-between use. When they are in use,
they are often subjected to heavy loads during extreme weather
conditions such as high heat. Both situations can lead to tire
damage and failure, which can quickly put a damper on any trip…or
turn into a dangerous situation. The primary reasons for RV tire
deterioration include the following:
Ozone and UV exposure
Over time, RV tires are exposed to a great deal of UV rays and
ozone poisoning. This can lead to cracks in the rubber, especially in
a tire's sidewall. Though a tire's exterior may look just fine at first
glance, further inspection may reveal small cracks on and within
aging sidewalls that worsen with time.
Improper tire inflation
Under- and over-inflation can both lead to blowouts. To help
prevent this, check the inflation pressure or your tires at least once
a month, and always before starting a trip. Do this when tires are
cold, as heat generated during driving temporarily increases air
pressure. Never remove air from a hot tire, which may result in
under-inflation when the tire cools.
Excessive load weight and uneven weight distribution
Tires frequently subjected to maximum loads will wear faster, while
tires that carry loads below their rated capacity can be expected to
last longer. Be sure to load your RV evenly. Uneven load
distribution leads to uneven tire wear.
Tire construction
Tires of different constructions, such as radial and bias ply, as well
as different sizes and stages of wear, can harm vehicle handling and
stability.
Use the same size and type of tire on all wheel positions. All RVs
built since 1972 have a certification label that contains the following
important information:
Gross axle weight ratings (GAWR) for each axle on the RV
Tire size
Recommended cold tire inflation pressure
Tire Care Tips
The most important thing you can do to extend the life of your
tires is to inspect them regularly. The following tips will also help:
Regularly wash tires with a mild soap, water and a soft brush. This
will help to remove accumulated ozone damage. Also, dirt on tire
sidewalls may act as an abrasive that can inhibit the tire's natural
wax protection.
Rotate your RV tires (including your spare) regularly to maintain
even wear.
Keep the tires (including spare) covered when your RV is not in use
to prevent ozone and UV damage.
Block and level your RV each time you plan to keep it in one place
for a couple of days or longer. This will help avoid unnecessary
stresses that lead to excessive tire wear.
Avoid tire products that contain petroleum-based substances.
Products containing alcohol or petrochemicals may create and
accelerate deterioration and cracking, in addition to stripping the
tire of its ozone protection. Some silicone oils found in such
products may cause similar damage.
It's important to keep in mind that the life of an RV tire cannot be
measured by miles alone, nor can you always rely on tires that "look
good." Given the stop-and-go nature of many RVers, RVs often sit
for extended periods of time in-between use. When they are in use,
they are often subjected to heavy loads during extreme weather
conditions such as high heat. Both situations can lead to tire
damage and failure, which can quickly put a damper on any trip…or
turn into a dangerous situation. The primary reasons for RV tire
deterioration include the following:
Ozone and UV exposure
Over time, RV tires are exposed to a great deal of UV rays and
ozone poisoning. This can lead to cracks in the rubber, especially in
a tire's sidewall. Though a tire's exterior may look just fine at first
glance, further inspection may reveal small cracks on and within
aging sidewalls that worsen with time.
Improper tire inflation
Under- and over-inflation can both lead to blowouts. To help
prevent this, check the inflation pressure or your tires at least once
a month, and always before starting a trip. Do this when tires are
cold, as heat generated during driving temporarily increases air
pressure. Never remove air from a hot tire, which may result in
under-inflation when the tire cools.
Excessive load weight and uneven weight distribution
Tires frequently subjected to maximum loads will wear faster, while
tires that carry loads below their rated capacity can be expected to
last longer. Be sure to load your RV evenly. Uneven load
distribution leads to uneven tire wear.
Tire construction
Tires of different constructions, such as radial and bias ply, as well
as different sizes and stages of wear, can harm vehicle handling and
stability.
Use the same size and type of tire on all wheel positions. All RVs
built since 1972 have a certification label that contains the following
important information:
Gross axle weight ratings (GAWR) for each axle on the RV
Tire size
Recommended cold tire inflation pressure
Tire Care Tips
The most important thing you can do to extend the life of your
tires is to inspect them regularly. The following tips will also help:
Regularly wash tires with a mild soap, water and a soft brush. This
will help to remove accumulated ozone damage. Also, dirt on tire
sidewalls may act as an abrasive that can inhibit the tire's natural
wax protection.
Rotate your RV tires (including your spare) regularly to maintain
even wear.
Keep the tires (including spare) covered when your RV is not in use
to prevent ozone and UV damage.
Block and level your RV each time you plan to keep it in one place
for a couple of days or longer. This will help avoid unnecessary
stresses that lead to excessive tire wear.
Avoid tire products that contain petroleum-based substances.
Products containing alcohol or petrochemicals may create and
accelerate deterioration and cracking, in addition to stripping the
tire of its ozone protection. Some silicone oils found in such
products may cause similar damage.
| T I R E C A R E |
Some advice from someone who hauls heavy and owns a
transmission shop and also works on all kinds of cars on a
daily basis. If you
are looking for a tow vehicle, get one that can handle the
weight of what you are towing. Sure, you may have the
power to move it. But,
do you have the weight (tow vehicle) and brakes to get it
stopped in a panic situation?
Try to find out the towing capacity of the vehicle. Most
small cars and SUV's are anywhere from 1000 to 2500
pounds. With any of these you better have trailer brakes.
If you don't and you have a panic stop, you may see your
trailer coming around your side. Also, you may experience
"sway" at higher speeds. A short wheel base, light vehicle
and incorrect loading are the main culprits of this.
As far as drivetrain. most of the transmissions in light cars
are just that..light. They arent made for towing any
significant weight.
Transmissions and engines are being made with lighter and
lighter components everyday to get the fuel economy up. I
don't know if you
looked lately at your newer engine. The intake manifolds,
plenums, and valve covers are being made out of plastics.
Cylinder heads are
aluminum and I am starting to see more and more
aluminum engine blocks.
So in short, get something bigger than what you think you
need. I know the price of fuel is a big factor nowadays. In
my mind I would
sooner have peace of mind knowing that my tow vehicle
will be able to handle any situation that may be thrown at
it.
Just so you know, I tow with a Ford F250 Superduty with
a 7.3 Liter TurboDiesel. Granted you don't need this to
tow a Scotty. But, I get
around 16 mpg towing. The truck alone weighs near 8000
lbs. I get 22 mpg on the hwy. I tow 15,000 lbs regularly in
the summer and have
no problems. Scott
transmission shop and also works on all kinds of cars on a
daily basis. If you
are looking for a tow vehicle, get one that can handle the
weight of what you are towing. Sure, you may have the
power to move it. But,
do you have the weight (tow vehicle) and brakes to get it
stopped in a panic situation?
Try to find out the towing capacity of the vehicle. Most
small cars and SUV's are anywhere from 1000 to 2500
pounds. With any of these you better have trailer brakes.
If you don't and you have a panic stop, you may see your
trailer coming around your side. Also, you may experience
"sway" at higher speeds. A short wheel base, light vehicle
and incorrect loading are the main culprits of this.
As far as drivetrain. most of the transmissions in light cars
are just that..light. They arent made for towing any
significant weight.
Transmissions and engines are being made with lighter and
lighter components everyday to get the fuel economy up. I
don't know if you
looked lately at your newer engine. The intake manifolds,
plenums, and valve covers are being made out of plastics.
Cylinder heads are
aluminum and I am starting to see more and more
aluminum engine blocks.
So in short, get something bigger than what you think you
need. I know the price of fuel is a big factor nowadays. In
my mind I would
sooner have peace of mind knowing that my tow vehicle
will be able to handle any situation that may be thrown at
it.
Just so you know, I tow with a Ford F250 Superduty with
a 7.3 Liter TurboDiesel. Granted you don't need this to
tow a Scotty. But, I get
around 16 mpg towing. The truck alone weighs near 8000
lbs. I get 22 mpg on the hwy. I tow 15,000 lbs regularly in
the summer and have
no problems. Scott
| ADVICE FROM ONE OF OUR MEMBERS |
 | |  | |  |
| If you have any information you would like to share with the group please email me at dturner26531@yahoo.com |
